Scoot Boots are being successfully used for all kinds of rehabilitation. Scoot Boots are great for sensitive soles and can be left on longer than most boots due to their superior breathability. Good breathability is vital in order to prevent a build-up of fungus and bacteria, which can occur when hooves overheat and trap moisture. Scoot Boots can help to relieve toe pressure, which is a necessity for laminitic horses. We also recommend using Scoot Pads if your horse has sensitive soles.
Horses can be turned out 24/7 in Scoot Boots. The excellent drainage capabilities of the Scoot Boot mean that your hooves will stay dry inside the boots and the horse's natural hoof heat will dry out any excess moisture.
The Scoot product range has excellent traction. The tread pattern is designed to provide traction for the majority of riding conditions, except on ice. However, studs can be used to increase traction on ice.
The Scoot Boot shell and securing straps are made from TPU (thermoplastic urethane), which has excellent abrasion and shock- absorbing abilities. Scoot Boots don’t have any components that will break off. The durability of any hoof boot will depend on the gait of your horse. If your horse has a floating movement, then the boots will last up to a several years with occasional riding. If your horse scuffs and twists its feet, then the Scoot Boots will wear a bit faster. If you participate in endurance riding, you can expect to get up to 1000 kilometres (600 miles) use from a pair of Scoot Boots. Again, this will depend on how light your horse is on its feet.
No, it is not correct. The reason this is said is because many people measure the length of the hoof incorrectly, stopping at the wrong position. As a result, we encourage everyone to take advantage of our FREE sizing service. If we get the size incorrect, we will cover all costs to exchange. Please see our Sizing Advice page for further information.
When riding, there is a lot of concussion applied to your boots, which can work the screws loose. Loctite, which is a thread locking glue, is applied to all screws during production to help prevent this. In the event that the screws do come loose, apply Loctite 222 before inserting. This is a low strength glue which is strong enough to hold the screws in place, but loose enough to allow you to remove the screws in the event you need to replace your straps. Loctite can be purchased from most hardware stores.
The Front Closure Straps are designed to make the application and removal process of the Scoot Boot very simple and practical. As with the pastern strap, the front closure straps are made of thermoplastic urethane (TPU), which has excellent strength and flexibility. When securing and removing the boots, always stretch the front strap across the holes before pulling the straps off the knob hooks. The diameter of the holes is 6mm (1/4"). For riders with weak fingers, the front straps can easily be attached/unattached using a hoof pick.
The Pastern Strap is designed to help prevent the boot being pulled off due to an overreach, or sucked off when riding through mud. It is not intended to be the primary source of securement. The strap is made of very strong thermoplastic urethane (TPU) and is designed to stretch when placed under load, so the strap will not affect the horse’s pasterns if secured correctly. It also has a number of holes to provide the correct setting, depending on the thickness of the horse’s pasterns. To set the strap at the correct length, make sure your horse is standing upright with its legs at 90 degree. Once secured, you should be able to place one finger (large) or two fingers (small) under the straps at the front of the pastern.
Pastern strap locks are designed to provide some extra security when riding through muddy conditions or through thick vegetation. Pastern strap locks are constructed of nylon and can be purchased as a Pastern Strap Lock Pack with each pack containing 8 locks.
Our Scoot Boot and Scoot Slims range are the preferred hoof protection for the majority of riding disciplines.
Scoot Skins are specifically for elite endurance riders who ride 80km-160km and want additional security. Scoot Skins are glued to the hoof and are recommended to use in disciplines where boots are not permitted. They can also be used for rehabbing unattended horses.
The Mud Strap has two purposes. Firstly, it provides ultimate security when riding in extreme conditions. Secondly, the Mud Strap can be used to assist hard-to-fit-hooves. For example, if your horse is in-between sizes, the Mud Strap can be fitted to the larger Scoot Boot and still have security. However, it important that you have the correct sized Mud Strap. The Mud Strap can also be used to obtain a more secure fit if your horse requires Scoot Pads and has consequently needed a larger sized Scoot Boot.
Scoot Boot offers a free sizing service. When you take up our sizing service, you will be rewarded with free shipping and covered by our free exchange policy. Please see ourSizing Advice pagefor further information.
Boot up on a dry, clean, soft surface (ie a large rubber mat or piece of carpet). Use only one boot to confirm sizing for both hooves. We do not accept returns/exchanges for marked, dirty boots. If you return your Scoot Boots dirty we will not refund or exchange your boots. (To exchange please go to www.scootboots.com and complete the returns form at the bottom of the home page). When you are ready to boot up:
Ensure front closure straps are undone and the pastern strap is detached from one side on the rear of the boot
Pick up the hoof with the sole facing upwards in the trimming position and slip the toe of the hoof into the boot
Pull the rear of the boot over the bulbs and place the hoof onto the ground
You should be able to fit a finger between the strap and the bulbs. If you cannot do this, you are a size too small. At no time should the strap be placing pressure on the bulbs
The hoof should slip comfortably into the boot
The fit should be snug and not tight or loose
To secure the front closure straps, grip the end of the strap with your thumb and forefinger. Stretch the strap over the knob hook at an angle and slip the elongated hole over the top or bottom edge of the knob hook
When the straps have been secured the gap at the front should a minimum 10mm (3/8") and a maximum of 15mm (5/8"). After riding you will find that the boot will mould to the hoof and the gap will reduce in width. An ideal gap is approx 10mm (3/8")
When the horse is standing upright, with its legs at 90 degrees, secure the security strap around the pastern and ensure that it is loose enough to be able to place two fingers between the strap and the pastern (at the front of the pastern). It is important the strap is set correctly to perform its function (not loose or not tight)
If you cannot place two fingers between the pastern strap and the pastern, loosen the pastern strap another hole. If the pastern strap is too tight, as the pastern flexes forward, the strap will pull the rear of the boot backwards and forwards over the rear of the hoof and cause rubbing. With the pastern strap set at the correct length this will not occur
Now that you have secured your Scoot Boots you need to ensure you have a snug fit – pick up the hoof and gently twist clockwise and anti clockwise. Your boot should not turn on the hoof (if the boot feels loose or sloppy you need to return your boots for a smaller size)
No adjustment is required as the boots are secured by the parts of the hoof that do not grow. If the correct sized boot is used, the security will come from the upper part of the boot and not the straps.
Scoot Boots are constructed of TPU (thermoplastic urethane). This is a very robust material, which provides shock absorption for the hoof, has high abrasion qualities, and will not become distorted by hot or cold weather. However, TPU is easily corrupted by certain chemicals. It is very important that you keep your boots free of any likely contaminants, which will compromise the integrity of your boot. Please note: We have identified that the widely used equine product “VetWrap” will cause a reaction with the TPU. As a result, "VetWrap" should not be secured directly to Scoot Boots as this will void your warranty if any damage occurs.
Yes, they can. With some hooves, Scoot Boots can fit perfectly around the periphery of the hoof, however the heel straps are too tight with not enough space to slip a finger between the heel straps and the heel bulbs. Heat-fitting can fix this issue. Please click HERE to view a short, video, which demonstrates how to stretch the heel straps with a heat gun.
*Note: it is vital that the heel straps are stretched no greater than 1/4'' (5mm). This equates to a full boot size. Over-stretching will compromise the fit and heat-fitting voids your warranty.
The majority of riders only use boots on the front hooves as the front end of the horse bears approximately 60-70% of a horse’s body-weight during motion. This is why the majority of lower leg injuries are sustained to a horse’s front legs. The rear legs mainly propel the horse and as a result experience significantly less direct weight bearing. However, if you are endurance riding or riding over extreme surfaces, and your horse’s hooves have not fully transitioned, then you will likely require boots on all four hooves.
Please see our blog for further information on transitioning your horse to barefoot.
No, Scoot Pads are only necessary if your horse has very sensitive soles. The sole/shell of Scoot Boots/Scoot Slims are constructed from TPU, which has high, shock-absorbing capabilities on its own so there is no need to use pads on a healthy, full-transitioned hoof.
No, the side vents actually provide a huge advantage when gluing. Simply place masking tape over the vents on the outside as this allows glue to penetrate the area and form a plug, which adds to glue strength.
When you ride for the first time in Scoot Boots, you must give your horse’s skin time to adjust as all horses have different levels of sensitivity. After your first ride you will find that the boots will mould to the shape of the hoof. Do not embark on a long ride. For example, do not ride more than 6 kilometres (4 miles) at a time, until you are assured that the boots are not chaffing/rubbing. If there are no issues, gradually increase your distance each time you ride as this will gradually condition your horse’s skin. We ask that you please use common sense and treat your horse’s pasterns/lower hoof the same as you would your own hands. For example, if you do too much hard, physical work all at once using your hands, you will likely end up with blisters. Whereas gradual, physical work will eventually toughen your hands/skin and therefore eliminate future issues. Your horse’s skin is no different. We provide complimentary trail gaiters with every pair of Scoot Boots to use when and if required. You may also like to purchase a set of endurance gaiters, which can be used for long distance/endurance riding. Please note if you do not allow a two finger space between the pastern and the strap, this may cause rubbing. This is because when tension is applied to the strap, the heel of the boot will continually be pulled against the side of the rear of the hoof, thus causing friction and rubbing.
When you fit your Scoots for the first time after a fresh trim, you should be able to comfortably slip your horse’s hooves into the boots. If effort is required to get them on, you most likely have boots a size too small. If the boots are too small, you will most likely find that the heel strap of the boot is too tight over the bulbs. You should be able to force a finger between the bulbs and the strap. When the straps have been secured, the gap at the front of the boot should be a maximum of 5/8" or 15mm. After your first ride, you will find that the boot will mould to the hoof and the gap will reduce in width. An ideal gap is approximately 3/8" or 10mm. If the front gap remains at 15mm (5/8") after your first ride, this means the boots are a size too small.
When you first fit your Scoot Boots, you need to do the “wriggle test”. Gently try to twist the boots clockwise and then anticlockwise and, if there is movement, you have a size too large. Do not try and force the boot to turn. The top of the boot that sits around the hoof, below the coronary band, should fit snug against the hoof wall. There should be no gap between the boot and the upper hoof wall below the coronary band. The following images show boots that are too large:
This photo shows lack of contact of the upper boot around the coronet.
This photo shows a hoof too wide for Scoot Boots, as indicated by the lack of contact below the coronet band.
Firstly, it is important to realise that there is a big difference between how your horse’s hooves are shaped now, and how they have to be shaped to wear hoof boots. A shape of a shod hoof is far different to a hoof that has been kept shoe free with regular “natural trims”. A shod hoof has a lot more toe, heel and wall than a naturally trimmed hoof, therefore the excess must be removed prior to using hoof boots.
Please see our blog for further information on transitioning your horse to barefoot.
The heels are kept low, as a barefooted horse does not require excessive heel length.
All flare is removed from the hoof walls. A straight edge should be able to be placed from the coronet to the bottom-edge of the hoof wall at ground level. There should be no space visible under the straight edge.
The ‘ground-bearing’ surface of the outer hoof wall should be beveled. This prevents the hoof wall from chipping. It also prevents the whiteline stretching and ensures a neat, strong hoof.
The toe is short and rolled to create a good break-over. The roll is generally in the vicinity of 45 degrees.
Please see our blog for further information on trimming, or view our instructional video on how to perform a natural barefoot trim.
Hoof preparation: Your horses’ hooves need to be cleaned and buffed in order to remove all moisture, grease and dirt. A rough surface will also aid in glue attachment. The inside of the Scoot Skins should be cleaned with an alcohol-based solvent cleaner to remove any contaminants. The inside of the skins should be cleaned with an alcohol-based solvent cleaner to remove contaminants and then buffed to create a rough surface to aid glue bonding.
Gluing: Gluing is an acquired skill, therefore you will need to seek out a skilled hoof care professional who is experienced in the art of gluing to do the initial work.
Please view the instructional videos below for further information.
If Scoot Boots twist on the hoof, the boots are either too big or the horse has an excessive twisting action due to conformation. Conformation means that Scoot Boots will not be suitable for your horse. If the twisting is minimal, we recommend you use Scoot Anti-Slip Shims to secure the fit. Scoot Shims are also a great aid for the securing fit when a horse is in-between sizes, or when conditions are dry and your horse’s hooves have shrunk making the boots a bit loose.
No, this hoof shape has a coronet diameter equal to or larger than the width of the bottom of the hoof. This means the walls of the boot are forced into a vertical shape to match the hoof wall and, as a result, the front of the boot is spread too far apart for the front straps to be secured correctly.
Two-thirds of horses need boots a size smaller for their rear hooves. Rear hooves are often narrower in shape than the front hooves. Scoot Slims are more likely to fit the rear hooves than Scoot Boots. The majority of horses will only require boots on the front feet unless you are riding excessive distances or over extreme terrain, or your horse’s hooves are still transitioning or are just naturally sensitive.
If using the correct sized Scoot Boots, you can allow for a 5 to 6 week trim cycle. A horse’s hoof growth slows dramatically over the drier and colder months, so during summer (unless you have a wet summer) and winter you can have increased riding time between trims.
Please see our blog for further information on trimming.
We strongly recommend keeping the bottom 15mm of the skins, or just over 5/8" above the sole, glue-free. It is vital that the glue does not get under the sole of the hoof as any lumps of glue are likely to cause bruising.
When a metal shoe is placed onto a hoof, the toe of the hoof is immediately lengthened. This results in a slower break-over speed, which in turn increases lever forces on the tendons at the back of the horse’s front legs. In order to keep a shod horse sound and prevent tendon injuries, keeping a higher heel height temporarily neutralises the lever forces to the tendons.
Barefoot hooves have a rolled short-toe so, with correct trimming, there are very few lever forces present. As a result the heels can be kept low and maximum frog/ground contact occurs, which is not only beneficial to the hoof but the horse’s entire body.
Please see our blog for further information on trimming.
Yes, Scoot Boots are very easy to clean as they are a ‘one-piece’ moulding. There are no cables or Velcro and the boots can simply be hosed clean at the end of a ride. Do not use any chemicals such as copper sulphate, inspect spray or cleaning agents as they can react with the TPU and damage your Scoot Boots and void your warranty.
Due to the air circulation, Scoot Skins allow the sole to ‘breathe’, which helps to prevent a build up of bacteria or fungus. The soles can also be flushed and medication applied during the five week setting.
Please see our blog for further information on diseases.
No, you cannot use hoof oils or greases. Oils and greases make the inside of the boots slippery. They are also not necessary. A horse’s hoof wall consists of approximately 70% water. When conditions are dry, moisture is evaporated from the hooves and they reduce in size as well as get dry and brittle. You need to replace the water that was lost, certainly don’t use grease or oil.
Your horses’ hooves need to be cleaned and buffed in order to remove all moisture, grease and dirt. A rough surface will also aid in glue attachment. The inside of the Scoot Skins should be cleaned with an alcohol-based solvent cleaner to remove any contaminants. The inside of the skins should be cleaned with an alcohol-based solvent cleaner to remove contaminants and then buffed to create a rough surface to aid glue bonding.
Yes, they can. Jumping can place stress on the horse's tendons and the ligaments that support their legs during push off and landing. The impact from landing can also damage structures in the front hooves. Metal shoes on a horse increases this concussion significantly. The material of the Scoot Boot is specifically designed to minimise the impact of concussion. There are elite show jumpers jumping successfully in Scoot Boots at grand prix level. You will need to check your respective FEI rules but in most countries boots are allowed in competition.
Yes, Scoot Boots can be used for endurance riding. Prior to embarking on a long ride, test your Scoot Boots over short distances to ensure performance and that there is no chaffing/rubbing. If there are no issues, gradually increase your distance with each ride. Over time this will condition your horse’s skin.
We recommend using one of our gaiter packs for endurance riding. Our Endurance Gaiter Pack contains two pairs of neoprene endurance gaiters, which provide protection for the lower back of the pastern and rear coronet area. We also sell trail gaiters. Our Trail Gaiter Pack contains two pairs of neoprene gaiters, which provide protection for the lower back of the pastern only. These are most suited to general trail riding.
EVA gaiter tape can also be used in conjunction with or instead of trail or endurance gaiters for added or tailored protection.
If you know your horse has sensitive skin we advise you to allow your horse time to slowly adjust to using Scoot Boots. Do not ride more than 6 kilometres (4 miles) at a time without checking the back of your horse’s pasterns for rubbing. Every pair of Scoot Boots comes with a complimentary Trail Gaiter Pack.
Please click HERE to view our instructional video on how to secure your endurance gaiters.