FAQ - Scoots Boots
Refer to our 'Fitting' page.
When you first fit your Scoot Boots you need to do the “wriggle test”. Gently twist them clock wise and then anti clockwise and if there is movement you have a size too large. Do not try and force the boot to turn. The top of the boot that sits around the hoof below the coronary band should fit snug against the hoof wall and there should be no gap between the boot and the upper hoof wall below the coronary band. The following images depict boots that are too large:
This photo shows a hoof too wide for Scoots due to lack of contact below the coronet band
When you first fit your Scoots after a fresh trim you should be able to comfortably slip your horses hooves into the boots. If effort is required to get them on then you have boots too small. The fit should be snug but not tight.
The following photos clearly indicate that the boots are too SMALL due to the front of the boot being forced open by the toe of the hoof. The maximum amount of opening should be no more than 10 mm (3/8") at the END of the trimming cycle and 6 mm to 7 mm (1/4") at the START of the trimming cycle.
It is important to note that this is the best indicator of when your horse is due for a trim.
The image below shows a freshly trimmed hoof with a large opening at the front of the boot. This is an obvious sign that the boot is too small for this hoof as this is at the start of the trimming cycle for this particular hoof.
If you want to use Scoot Boots you will need to contact your local barefoot trimmer to correct hoof form. The following photos depicts excessive heel height of the hoof.
Due to excessive heel height the rear heel straps are sitting too low over the horse’s bulbs.
The following photos clearly indicate:
- a hoof with excessive heel and wall height preventing proper securement
- the heel bulb straps are sitting too low over the bulbs
- there is a excessive distance at the front and sides between the top edge of the boot and the coronet
- the ground parallel hair line clearly indicates excessive heel height making the trim/hoof unsuitable for Scoot Boots.
The distance between the top of the boot and the coronet should be no more than 10mm (3/8"). This horse requires a correct barefoot trim before wearing Scoot Boots.
When you first ride in your new Scoot Boots you must give your horse’s skin time to adjust to the new boots as all horses have different levels of sensitivity. As with shoes for people, you need to give your horse time to adjust to the new boots. Do not embark on a long ride - for example no more than 6 kilometres (4 miles) at a time, until you are assured the boot is not chaffing/rubbing. If there are no issues, gradually increase your distance each time you ride which will gradually condition your horse’s skin. We ask you to use common sense and treat your horse’s pasterns/lower hoof the same as you would your own hands. If you do too much hard physical work using your hands all at once you end up with blisters. Gradual physical work will eventually toughen your hands/skin eliminating future issues. Your horse’s skin is no different. We provide complimentary trail gaiters with every pair of Scoot Boots should you require them. You may also purchase our Endurance Gaiter Pack from our online store which can be used for long distance/endurance riding.
If you do not allow a 2 finger space between the pastern and the strap this will also cause rubbing. When tension is applied to the strap the heel of the boot will be continuously pulled against the side of the rear of the hoof and will cause rubbing.
The Scoot Boot shells and securing straps are constructed of TPU (thermo plastic urethane), which has excellent abrasion and shock absorbing qualities. There are no components that will break off from our Scoot Boots. The durability of any hoof boot will depend on the gait of your horse in the same way as the durability of a sport’s shoe. If your horse has a floating movement then the boots will last anywhere up to a couple of years with occasional riding. If your horse scuffs and twists its feet then the wear factor of our Scoot Boots is reduced. If you participate in endurance riding then you would expect to get up to 1000 kilometres (600 miles). Again, this will depend on how light your horse is on its feet.
The pastern strap is designed to help prevent the boot being pulled off due to an overreach or sucked off when riding through mud. It is not intended to be the primary source of securement.
The strap is constructed of very strong thermo plastic urethane (TPU) and is designed to stretch when placed under load, so at no time does this strap cause issues to the horse’s pasterns if secured correctly. It also has a number of holes to provide the correct setting, depending on the thickness of the horse’s pasterns.
When setting this strap at the correct length, ensure your horse is standing upright with its legs at 90 degrees. Once secured you should be able to comfortably place one large or two small fingers under the strap at the front of the pastern.
The only time the strap has loading is when the pastern is at its furthest position forward over the hoof capsule at the precise time the heels of the hoof are leaving the ground. This mechanism keeps the heel of the boot firmly in contact with the heel of the hoof which provides security in the case of an overreach or suction from mud.
Caution - if you do not allow a one or two finger space, tension will be applied to the strap and the heel of the boot will be pulled against the side of the rear of the hoof and will cause rubbing.
This image shows that the pastern strap length is set in excess of the required two finger space. The length of this strap totally eliminates its required function.
This next image shows the pastern strap too tight which again eliminates its required function.This image indicates the pastern strap is secured too tight as the one to two finger space between the strap and the pastern has not been allowed. Having the strap too tight will usually result in the boot rubbing in the vicinity of the rear knob hooks where the strap attaches each side of the boot. As the pastern moves forward over the hoof capsule a tight strap will pull the rear of the boot firmly up against the rear of the hoof with each stride. Friction will then result and rubbing will occur.
These straps are designed to make the Scoot Boot a very simple and practical boot to use allowing quick application and removal. As with the pastern strap the closure straps are constructed of thermo plastic urethane (TPU) which provides excellent strength and flexibility. When securing and removing the boots always stretch the strap to elongate the holes before pulling the straps off the knob hooks. The diameter of the holes is 6mm (1/4"). At times during the moulding process TPU can slightly obstruct the hole which causes the hole to be smaller. If this is the case and you find the strap hard to secure, increase the size of the hole using a leather hole puncher. For riders with weak fingers the front closure straps can easily be attached using a hoof pick. See below video demonstrating this. When you purchase your new Scoot Boots you will receive replaceable strap and hardware. Should the need arise to replace straps or hardware always ensure you use a thread glue such as Loctite. If you need to replace front straps you may need to use a hacksaw or grinder to cut off the rivets from the boot as the Loctite may make it impossible to remove the screws.
The Scoot Boots are very lightweight. The mid sizes weigh 250 grams per boot so a pair only weighs 500 grams. (Approximately 1 pound)
The majority of riders only use boots on the front feet as the front end of the horse bears over 60% of a horse’s bodyweight during motion. This is why the majority of lower leg injuries are sustained to a horse’s front legs. The rear legs mainly propel the horse so have significantly less direct weight bearing. However if you are endurance riding or riding over extreme surfaces and your horse’s hooves have not fully transitioned then you may require boots on all four feet.
If you decide you require boots both front and back the best way to ensure the correct size is to initially select a size for the front. Once you have the correct size for the front then use this pair to size up the back feet, as you may require a smaller size for the back.
No, unless you are using boots on a sensitive hoof that has sustained an injury or is very sensitive. The sole/shell is constructed of TPU that has very high shock absorbing capabilities on its own without the need to use pads on a healthy hoof. If you do require pads, you can purchase them from our online store.
Our Scoot range has excellent traction. The tread pattern is designed to provide traction for the majority of riding conditions, except on ice.
Yes you can. There is ample room at the heels of the scoot boots to apply studs when riding on ice and other slippery terrain. You can purchase studs at http://www.hoofgroove.ch/
The Scoot Boots have excellent drainage so basically no water or debris can be retained inside the Scoot Boot.
Scoot Boots are very easy to clean, as they are a ‘one piece’ moulding. The boots can be simply hosed clean at the end of a ride. There is no Velcro or cables to clean so it makes cleaning so easy. Do not use any cleaning chemicals as this can react with the TPU and will damage your scoot boots.
If the correct size is selected, Scoot Boots are designed to allow for growth throughout a 5 to 6 week trim cycle. The hoof growth of a horse slows dramatically over the drier and colder months so this generally means that over summer (unless you have a wet summer) and winter you will get longer riding time between trims.
There are three common reasons why this occurs:
- Your horses hooves have not had a correct trim and the toes are either excessively long, the hoof is too wide for the boot, or your horse is at the end of its trim cycle.
- You have selected a size too small.
- Your horses hooves are too vertical in the walls and are not suitable for Scoots. Vertical hoof walls are also present in mules and club feet which prevent a secure fit.
With a correct fitting boot the maximum opening should be no more than 10mm (3/8")
A natural trim is required as follows:
- The heels are kept low, as a barefooted horse does not require excessive heel length.
- All flare is removed from the hoof walls. A straight edge should be able to be placed from the coronet to the bottom edge of the hoof wall at ground level and no space should be visible under the straight edge.
- The ‘ground bearing’ surface of the outer hoof wall should be beveled. This prevents the hoof wall from chipping and also prevents the white line stretching and ensures a neat, strong hoof.
- The toe is short and rolled to create a good break over. The roll is generally in the vicinity of 45 degrees
See our 'Blog' page for further information
When you place a metal shoe onto the hoof you are immediately lengthening the toe of the hoof. This results in a slower break over speed, which in turn increases lever forces on the tendons at the back of the horse’s front legs. In order to keep a shod horse sound and prevent tendon injuries, keeping an ideal heel height temporarily neutralizes these lever forces to the horse’s tendons.
Barefoot hooves have a rolled short toe so at all times, with correct trimming, there are very minimal lever forces present. As a result the heels can be kept low and therefore maximum frog ground contact occurs, which is not only beneficial to the hoof but the horse’s entire body
Once the correct size is chosen the securing is all about the upper of the boot to keep it secure and not the straps. Our Scoot Boots do not move once they are on and no adjustment is required as the securing is done by the parts of the hoof that do not grow.
In most cases our Scoot Boots would not be suitable due to the fact that shod horses have excessive hoof left on to be able to fit the shoe correctly. Our Scoot Boots are ideally only used for the correctly trimmed hoof. Please refer to our trimming information in relation to the types of hoofs that are suitable for our Scoot Boots.
Scoot Boots are being successfully used for some areas of rehabilitation. Scoot Boots are great for sensitive soles and can be left on longer than most boots due to their superior breatheability. This is vital to prevent build up of fungus and bacteria due to the hoof overheating and trapping moisture. Scoot Boots also relieve toe pressure which is a necessity for laminitic horses. If using pads we recommend the maximum size of pads used in Scoot Boots be no thicker than 4mm – 5mm as using thicker pads may affect the optimum fit.
Now that you have decided to take your horse’s shoes off for the first time and go booting, it is important to realise that there is a big difference between how your horse’s hooves are shaped now and how they have to be shaped to wear hoof boots. It is not simply a matter of removing your metal shoes and applying hoof boots. A shod hoof is far different in shape to a hoof that has been kept shoe free with regular “natural trims”. A shod hoof has a lot more toe, heel and wall than a naturally trimmed hoof, so the extra hoof must be removed before you even consider to go booting and before you measure up for boots.
When sized correctly our Scoot Boots should not rotate on the hoof, or at best, very limited movement.
Scoot Boots can be used for endurance. Prior to embarking on a long ride test your Scoot Boots over short distances to ensure performance. Gradually increase your distance with each ride.
We retail two styles of Scoot Gaiter Packs which includes the following:
Endurance Gaiter Pack - two pairs of Endurance Gaiters which provide protection for lower back of the pastern and rear coronet area.
Trail Gaiter Pack - two pairs of Trail Gaiters which provide protection for lower back of the pastern only. These are recommended for general trail riding.
Our Gaiter Pack is made from high quality neoprene and provides protection for sensitive skinned horses and for endurance riders travelling excessive distances.
If you know your horse has sensitive skin we advise you to slowly allow your horse to become adjusted to wearing Scoot Boots. Never ride more than 5 km at a time without checking the back of your horse’s pasterns for rubbing. Every pair of Scoot Boots come with a complimentary Trail Gaiter.
Always build up to your desired distance. As with any athlete it takes time to adjust to a new pair of running shoes.Endurance Gaiters and gluing
Yes they do. For that reason, to prevent the hooves from over heating when riding in hot weather, we have designed the Scoot Boot to have excellent ventilation and breathability.
Every pair of Scoot Boots has replaceable spare parts and is therefore very easy to replace any lost or broken part. The only tool required is a Phillips head screw driver and a pair of pliers for replacing or tightening screws and some thread locking glue such as Loctite to apply to the screws before securing. This glue will prevent the screws from working loose. If you need to replace a front strap/hardware the Loctite may prevent the removal of the screws. If so, cut the rivet or knob hook head with a hacksaw or grinder to replace front straps/hardware.Click HERE for demonstration on replacing the front straps.
No it is not correct. Customers who have ordered a size too big have not measured the length of the hoof from the correct position on the heels. This is why we now offer to select your correct size by way of using photos that you send to us. Please refer to the instructions on our 'Sizing' page on this web site.
Loctite, which is a thread locking glue, is applied to all screws during production. There is a lot of concussion applied to your boots when riding which will work the screws loose. If you find your screws are working loose or you have lost a knob hook please apply Loctite to the screws before securing. Loctite can be purchased from any hardware store.
Certainly. The hoof boot fits on the hoof neatly under the feathers and the pastern strap secures around the pastern over the top of the feathers.
It is a good idea to keep your Scoot Boots inside with your own boots. This keeps the straps flexible.
We recommend you use our glue on endurance gaiters. These gaiters protect sensitive areas of the hoof over long distances. Once glued they stay secure and provide ultimate protection. A glue we recommend is Selleys Shoe Fix.
This enables a minimum amount of flex under pressure and provides maximum bonding. Please see the video below which shows a gluing demonstration.
Please visit our 'Re-sellers' page where you may register as a re-seller. Scoot Boot offers generous profit margins.
This could be for a number of reasons. Please contact us for further advice at firstname.lastname@example.org. If you are confident you have the correct size, we recommend using Mueller tape which will prevent the boot turning on the hoof and provide extra security. Mueller tape may also assist if your Scoots twist in wet conditions. Also see the question "My Scoots fitted well when I first received them but now seem too loose. Why is this?" for further information.
We designed the Pastern Strap Lock to provide that little bit of extra security when riding in muddy conditions or through thick vegetation. For general riding they are not required as the majority of riders have never had issues losing pastern straps.
Scoot boots are the preferred hoof protection for the majority of riding disciplines.
Your horse's hooves have dried out and reduced in size. It is very important that your horse has been trimmed correctly before you first measure, with all excess hoof wall removed, as hooves can reduce or increase up to half a size at a minimum. This is because a horse's hoof is made up of 70% water so when the ground conditions dry out hooves actually shrink in size as moisture is lost. When ground conditions become continuously wet the hooves will swell as they absorb water and become larger. This results in boots becoming too tight or too loose. If your boots have become too loose we recommend you use Scoot 'glue in' pads which will improve fit. Alternatively many riders have two different sizes of Scoots for summer and winter.
Scoot Anti Slip Shims can be used to improve the boot fit in dry conditions when the hooves have shrunk and the boots are a bit loose.
Definitely not. Oils and greases make the inside of the boots slippery. Also grease and oils are a waste of money. Hoof walls consist of 70% water. When the conditions are dry moisture is evaporated from the hooves and they reduce in size as well as get dry and brittle. You need to replace what was there in the first place which was water. Certainly not grease or oil.
Unfortunately there is a high chance that the hooves will rotate in the boots so Scoots will not be suitable for your horse
Any type of cleaning agent/chemical will damage your scoot boots and void your warranty